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Sommeliére Likes It Hot

Porn star and acclaimed Vintner Savanna Samson offers us a tour of the big, bold wines she likes best. We call them the grapes of writhe

By Dan Dunn

Our fantasies usually involve the women who drink our wine, not the ones who make it. Savanna Samson has caused us to reconsider. When she launched her own wine label, in 2006, the porn superstar fully expected a hard time from the critics; instead she was treated more gently than she is during a typical day at work. Before any prudes could decry her entry into the civilized world of oenology, her debut release, Sogno Uno, a blend of 70 percent cesanese grapes, 20 percent sangiovese and 10 percent montepulciano, received a ringing endorsement from preeminent wine critic Robert Parker, who awarded it an outstanding score of 90 to 91. Based on her ability to produce both adult beverages and adult entertainment, we felt she was the perfect guide to the

bottlings that are best when the mood is right or, better yet, sinfully wrong.

Arriving at Samson’s spacious Madison Avenue apartment, we discover this lady is disarmingly down-to-earth and very knowledgeable about wine (and other lubricants). As we talk over a glass of Krug, the topics of our conversation range from what she describes as her perfectly normal childhood in upstate New York to her favorite sexual predilection -- one that requires some delicacy and a third partner (female). Once the Krug is drained, Samson lets down her hair, and we get down to the business of uncorking some favorites from her personal collection.

Savanna’s Picks

Ridge Monte Bello

A Sizable Undertaking

“Because of what I do for a living, I’ve developed a taste for big things,” muses Samson, “like a Ridge Monte Bello” ($135). A blend composed mostly of cabernet sauvignon, it gets Samson’s adjectives flowing. “Beefy, dense and jammy,” she suggests. Monte Bello is the wine that introduced Ridge to the world and is perhaps best known among serious oenophiles for taking top honors at the 30th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris tasting.

2006 Michele Chiarlo Nivole moscato d’asti

Inside Information

When the talk turns to girl-on-girl action, Samson says her preferred prelude to a sapphic dalliance is the Italian semisparkling wine moscato d’asti. A cousin of asti spumante, this light, bubbly treat is the most delicate of dessert wines. Her favorite is a 2006 Michele Chiarlo Nivole moscato d’asti ($10 a half bottle). “Moscato has the aroma of a ripe, white peach and the sweet velvety softness of a woman’s outer lips, but the inner flavors are the best part.”

Binomio from Fattoria La Valentina

An Explosive Pairing

The robust Binomio from Fattoria La Valentina ($50) is the result of a collaboration between two of Italy’s most dynamic winemakers, Stefano Inama and Sabatino di Properzio. Made entirely with montepulciano grapes, the Binomio displays lots of mineral character with strong hints of cassis. “This delicious wine is so earthy you can practically feel the terroir as you’re drinking it,” Samson says. “Plus I’m all over anything that has bi in its name.”

What Pops Her Cork

Bitch Barossa

Taking Charge

Next up is a Bitch Barossa grenache ($10) that brings out the dominatrix in the normally demure Samson. The bold, spicy wine is composed of 100 percent old-vine grenache. “It’s not often I bring out the leather, whips and chains, so when I do,“ she growls, “look out. I love the feeling of power as I take control. Watching a guy get off as I work the whip is so delicious. A wine called Bitch is perfect -- I can be the perfect bitch.”

Grande Cuvée

Going Wild

“I wish we had more of this,” Samson says as she ruefully examines the empty bottle of Grande Cuvée ($150). The flagship of the Krug family of champagnes is as fine a multivintage bottle of bubbly as exists today, with a flavor profile that falls somewhere between the ethereal Clos du Mesnil and Krug’s potent vintage bottlings. Adds Samson, “A great champagne foreshadows what’s to come, and that’s usually something wild.”

Sogno Uno

The Climax

To cap our rendezvous Samson offers her crowning achievement, the Sogno Uno ($50), which appropriately translates to Dream One. She developed it with the help of acclaimed Italian winemaker Roberto Cipresso, who has also made wine for the Vatican. “Last year my boyfriend tried it for the first time,” she says. “I poured it down my chest while I was sitting on his face. He said my wine and I were the best he’d ever had.” No doubt.

Vintage Pours, Vintage Porn

When we talk with Savanna, the conversation inevitably turns toward pairing. Here are the fantasy wines we picked as perfect complements to the classics of fantasy filmmaking

966 Château Margaux with Behind the Green Door Behind the Green Door

1966 Château Margaux & “Behind the Green Door”

The appearance of Ivory Snow-box model Marilyn Chambers in this 1972 film caused a sensation, as did the 1966 Margaux, a smooth wine of unparalleled brilliance.

1945 Château Mouton Rothschild with Deep Throat Deep Throat

1945 Château Mouton Rothschild & “Deep Throat”

This 1972 film is about a woman who achieves orgasm by performing fellatio. The 1945 Mouton Rothschild will unquestionably produce similarly sensational oral results.

1978 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne with The Devil in Miss Jones The Devil in Miss Jones

1978 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne & “The Devil in Miss Jones”

Here, Georgina Spelvin aims to earn her way into hell by engaging in a range of sexual experiences. Like Spelvin, there’s little we wouldn’t try to get a glass of this cru.

1992 Screaming Eagle with Debbie Does Dallas Debbie Does Dallas

1992 Screaming Eagle & “Debbie Does Dallas”

Bambi Woods, the star of DDD, appears in only four films. Fitting, then, to pair her with this coveted Oakville, California cabernet. Only 175 cases were produced; one bottle now costs five figures.

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