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The Drink

Château Mont Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2003

The Price

$37

The Score

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The Taste

Even people who don't know a thing about grape-growing have heard of Bordeaux and Burgundy -- two of France's most legendary wine regions. But these aren't the only quality regions. In fact, the best values more often stem from Alsace, the Loire and the Rhône Valley. Within the Rhône, there are two types of wines that are especially worth getting to know: Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes du Rhône.

Château Mont Redon, which has been around since the 1300s, makes astonishingly beautiful Rhûne wines -- thanks to a rare mix of pebbled limestone, alpine diluvium soil and sandy soil coupled with a fairly high altitude of 360 feet. Its 2004 Côtes du Rhône is a steal at around $14, but its 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, at more than twice that price, is the must-try.

This wine is a blend of blends: 65 percent grenache, 15 percent syrah, 10 percent cinsault, 5 percent mourvedre, and a bunch of other varietals few people ever talk about (counoise, muscardin and vaccarese). The blends of these grapes are aged in oak for up to 16 months, and the final, full-bodied product has a garnet-like reddish-purple color. The bouquet has distinct cherry notes. It tastes fruity and tart, with a peppery-spicy, tannic finish. This is what balance and structure are all about: No single flavor or sensation overwhelms the palate. The wine will also age gracefully if stored, on its side, in a cool, dark space. Grillers, take note: Rhône wines are consistently food-friendly. Pair with beef, poultry or lamb, and expect to hear more about the wine than about your perfectly done steak.

-- James Oliver Cury

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