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Drink mavens may remember the onslaught of elderflower cocktails a few years back. Bartenders across the country seemed to discover the plant all at once and began mixing elderflower syrup with gin, bourbon and champagne. But there's never been a dedicated elderflower liqueur, probably because no one ever felt there was a need, or because the flowers are maddeningly seasonal.
Now Robert Cooper, a part owner of Chambord, has developed St-Germain -- a French product packaged in stunningly ornate, individually numbered bottles. The spirit is made with fresh wild elderflowers picked in the Alps -- nothing freeze-dried, frozen or foreign for this guy. The company carefully macerates the flowers (a soaking process that releases the flavors) and adds eau de vie (grape spirit), as well as citrus essences and cane sugar. The liqueur is 20 percent alcohol (40 proof) -- not too strong by any means.
The result is a honey-yellow drink with a heady aroma. Imagine a blend of pear, peach and grapefruit, with hints of lychee and even guava. It tastes a little too sweet and concentrated to drink straight up or even on the rocks. But with gin, vodka, tequila or bubbly, it is pleasantly mellowed -- less pungent fruit juice and more exotic flavoring. Bottom line: This liqueur is very niche, but nicely done.
-- James Oliver Cury
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